WoodLab 101
General Safety Requirements
Mandatory:
Safety glasses (provided)
Closed-toed shoes
Remove dangling jewelry
Tie back long hair
Recommended:
Hearing protection (provided)
Particle filter mask or dust mask
Curriculum
Review Safety Procedures
Minors 17 and under must be accompanied by an adult who has taken the class
Wear the proper safety equipment: earplugs, safety glasses, respirator (optional)
Reiterate that participants must have closed toed shoes
All loose or dangly items must be secured and tucked in (i.e. drawstrings, shirt tails, sleeves tucked in)
Long hair must be tied back
Wood Dust is toxic. Always make sure the dust collectors are turned on, and wear a respiratory mask
Point out the following safety equipment:
Fire extinguishers (mounted near all exits)
First aid kits located at front desk
Eyewash Station
Main causes of injury are:
Not being aware of your environment
Kickbacks
Woodshop Orientation
WoodLab Drop-In Fees
$45/day (12pm to 9pm)
Review Basic Shop Layout
Sanding booth
Short Term Storage
Communal Use Areas/Tools:
Tables with locking wheels
Hand and power tools
Private studios
Wood storage
Waste streams: garbage vs. green wood vs. composites all separate
Sawdust treatment and disposal
How to keep things tidy - leave any areas you use BETTER than you found them
PPE, bits and other consumable available at front. Safety glasses may be purchased
Review General Safety Guidelines
Remind students about safety gear required (safety glasses, closed toed shoes, hearing protection, no loose clothing)
Hands are never close to cutting/drilling/turning mechanisms
ALWAYS unplug a tool before servicing it/ changing bits or blades
In most cases, blade/bit should reach full speed before touching material
Ensure participants turn tool off before passing off to next person
Point out location of eyewash station
Hand Tools
1. Drill
What it’s used for:
Chuck drill - drives screws and accepts drilling bits
Has a screw setting with adjustable speeds and a drilling setting
Has different settings of torque. The drill will give up after a certain amount of torque. The lower the number, the sooner it will give up. The higher the number, the less it will give up.
Parts: Batteries, chargers, clutch on the back (adjusts drilling force), how to change bits
Important safety guidelines:
Hold down material - it can spin
Keep hands away from end of drill in case you slip (screw into hand)
Nail in top of screw to start
Capacities:
Minimium 1/16" diameter shank
Maximum 3/8" diameter shank
Tolerance:
Accurate to .01"
What it’s used for: Drives very fine nails, useful for supporting furniture glue ups (don’t last very long on their own)
18 gauge nails only, takes 1/2" to 2.5" nails
Parts: Air compressor, cartridge, nails
Important safety guidelines:
Review of safety and loading nails
Must be pressed against material to fire nail
If it jams, the nail can fire out to the left or the right and potentially cause injury.
If it jams, disconnect air compressor and open cartridge to check
Instructor demo, then student demo
Make sure nail is fully in the wood before pulling the brad nailer away. Otherwise the top of the nail may be sticking out of your piece.
Can be set to single fire or multiple fire mode.
Tolerance:
Accurate to .1"
What it’s used for: Increases strength of glued joints, and helps align pieces when glueing up.
Parts: Various settings, blade, trigger, biscuits (various sizes)
Use more than 1 biscuit when joining wood together. Otherwise the piece may pivot if using just 1 biscuit.
Do not use on material thinner than 3/4".
Important safety guidelines:
Secure piece to table with clamps
Keep hand clear of blade forward motion
Notch on side sets number closest to biscuit size
How to line up on wood (“witness marks”)
Tolerance:
Accurate to .1"
What it’s used for: Freeform cutting
Parts: blade, trigger, chuck
Maximum Capacity: Can cut material up to 2" thick
Speed adjustment dial can be turned only as far as 6 and back to 1. Do not force it past 6 or 1, or the speed adjusting function may no longer work.
Material to be cut:
Wood (speed 5 to 6)
Mild Steel (speed 3 to 6)
Stainless Steel (speed 3 to 4)
Aluminum (speed 3 to 6)
Plastics (speed 1 to 4)
Cutting Action Dial (controls the orbit)
0 - Straight Line Cutting Action
For clean cuts in wood and plywood.
I - Small orbit cutting action
For cutting hardwood
II - Medium orbit cutting action
For cutting wood and plywood.
III - Large orbit cutting action
For fast cutting in wood and plywood
Important safety guidelines:
Dust extraction
Vibration
Press down on the jigsaw and make sure the base is level when cutting. Not lifted and at an angle.
○ Keep hands clear of blade
○ If the tool is operated continuously at low speeds for a long time, the motor will get overloaded and heat up.
○ If the wood bounces, do not put your hand on it. If there’s a lot of friction and movement, stop and reclamp the piece.
○ You do not need to make your cut in a singular motion. You can cut off excess pieces from the side and continue on.
○ Do not force the jigsaw, just guide it.
Tolerance:
Accurate up to .1"
What it’s used for: cutting and edging
Parts: housing, switches, bit-changing wrenches
Has a 1/4" collet, and up to a 2" plunge depth.
Bits:
Ball bearing - follows edge
No bearing - lets you cut into/through material
How to change bits -unplug, remove guide, use yellow button to stop spindle from turning, then use wrench to unscrew and tighten collet
Important safety guidelines:
Secure piece to table with clamps
Make sure it is not turned on before you plug it in
Ensure collet is clamping on flat part of shank (if the bit is too far in, you may clamp on the fillet at transition between the shank and the bit)
Keep hands clear of bit
Make shallow passes
Never start with bit touching piece
Conventional vs. climb cuts (conventional is safer and usually preferred)
Conventional cuts: Router is moved in the opposite direction that the bit is spinning (ie. if the bit spins clockwise, move around the material counter-clockwise.)
Climb cuts: Router is moved in the same direction that the bit is spinning
It will burn your wood if you’re not moving it.
Tolerance:
Accurate up to .01"
What it’s used for: Finishing (NOT MATERIAL REMOVAL)
Parts: Sanding pad, on switch, sandpaper
Sandpaper we use is generally 60 to 240 grit, but can go up to as high as 1000 grit
Important safety guidelines:
Dust extraction
How to avoid pieces flying away
Keep hands clear (you could get burned)
Don't forget to attach sandpaper
Tolerance:
Accurate up to .1"
What it’s used for: Sanding edges of wood quickly
Parts: belts, sanding disc
We use 80 grit sandpaper on the belt and disc sander
Capacities:
Belt Sander: material up to 5" wide
Disc Sander: material up to 5" wide
Important safety guidelines:
Ensure long sleeves are rolled up
Make sure you have no loose clothing (scarves, hoodies strings, etc.)
Ensure Dust extractor is turned on and vent is opened
Tolerance:
Accurate up to .01"
Power Tools
What it’s used for?
Rough-cutting sheet material
Can change cut directions to cut vertically and horizontally
Parts: feed rollers/tracks, saw tracks, saw housing, indexing pins, shopvac hookup
Capacity:
Up to 1.5" thick material
Can cut up to 4' high material vertically
Can cut up to 5' high material horizontally
Uses an 8" blade
Important safety guidelines:
Shopvac hookup
Start saw near material, allow to reach full speed before cutting
Allow saw to stop spinning before bringing back up into start position
Piece must be big enough to span saw's track area (and be supported on either side) - e.g. minimum width = 18"
Fingers never within 6” of the blade
When rotating to set up a horiz. (rip) cut, ensure material gets fed in correct direction (against saw direction)
Tolerance:
Accurate up to 1"
What it’s used for: cutting long, thin pieces into shorter lengths (no metal)
Parts: table, blade, guides, how to move guides
Capacities:
Uses a 12" blade
Maximum Width: 13.5"
Maximum Depth: 3.5"
Maximum Mitre: 52° left/60° right miter capacity
Maximum Bevel: 47° left/47° right
Important safety guidelines:
Start saw in back position
Allow saw to stop spinning before letting it fall back into start position
Never cross hands in front of blade
Fingers never within 6” of blade
Kickback zone = back
How to cut a deeper piece of wood - pull saw out (lift little lever)
Angle cuts
saw tilts - make sure it won’t hit guides
lever to turn bed and saw left or right
Tolerance:
Accurate to .1"
What it’s used for: drilling in metal and wood
Capacity:
Speed: 50 to 3000 rpm
Depth: Up to 6"
Parts: bits, chuck, display screen
Important safety guidelines:
Secure piece to table with clamps
Set the proper RPM for your material
Keep hands clear of bit
Stop if smoking
Never start with bit touching piece
Tolerance:
Accurate up to .01"
What it’s used for: Holds router upside down, easier for doing longer edges (has guides). It's good for small or medium/large pieces
Parts: router attached, guides, fence, collet
Capacities:
10,000 to 21,000 RPM
1/4" and 1/2" collets
Important safety guidelines:
Ensure router is secure
How to adjust fence
How to change bit
How to adjust router depth
Move from right to left
How to set the RPM on the router
Tolerance:
Accurate up to .01"
5. Small Table Saw
What it’s used for: long cuts on flat pieces
Parts: blade, sawstop, fence, dust extractor - make sure it’s actually turned on
Capacities:
Uses a 10" blade
Material thickness: 1mm to 3"
Minimum width: 2mm between fence and blade
Maximum sheet size: Depends on the space around infront of / behind the table saw (~12')
Important safety guidelines :
Use push stick for closer cuts
Always push down on the material between the blade and the fence
Use sled for crosscuts
Ask for help if cutting sheets
SawStop and how it works, what it costs, what sets it off (body parts, treated lumber, mirrored acrylic, metal tape, any metal, wet wood, carbon burns on laser cut wood- anything that conducts!)
$250 fee if you trigger itDon’t rely on the accuracy of the mitre gauge - use the digital angle finder
Turn on Dust extractor
Tolerance:
Accurate up to .01"
If the saw stop is triggered at any time for any reason (act of god, random chance, computer error, metal, mirrored acrylic, conductive material, organic material, wet wood, treated wood, carbonized wood, etc), it's the responsibility of the person using the sawstop at that time. Triggering a saw stop is $250
Notes:
Consumables: We have them (screws, drill bits, etc.) but do not assume they will always be available for use/in good condition, as they are shared by everyone.
Triggering a saw stop is $250